Behind the scenes of the Boat Race

Everyone in the world knows that the Oxford-Cambridge Boat Races start at Putney and finish at Chiswick, but there are some surprising landmarks along the way, too says Lebby Eyres

This week, Lucy’s had some very flash Arbitrix Chief Nostalgia Correspondent cards made up for me. So I feel duty bound to write a newsletter about one of the most traditional – and some would say anachronistic – events in the British sporting calendar: the Boat Race.

It is actually 30 years since I took part in the Women’s Boat Race, which was then held in Henley. This was not because we were too delicate to complete the four-mile, 374 yard side by side battle of strength and will, but because rowing was an institutionally sexist sport and we were treated as second class citizens.

Happily, things have changed. Not only are the women now allowed to race on the traditional course (sponsors eventually put their foot down, proving money talks) but so are the veteran women too. On Friday at 14:33pm I’ll be stroking the Oxford boat, almost 30 years to the day since our 1994 race. (Let’s hope the result is different!)

So you have a choice – wander down to Putney Embankment on Good Friday to watch us and the Lightweights, or on Saturday, when proceedings start at 14:46pm with the Women’s Boat Race. Inevitably, it’s more than likely that one boat will get ahead, stay ahead and then win (and I dearly hope it’s us), rowing not being the most exciting of spectator sports. But you never know, every now and again there’s an absolute cracker, and last year’s Men’s Boat Race was memorable for some wonderful coxing derring-do.

And even if not, there’s plenty to keep your attention if you’re not one of the (un)lucky ones expending blood, sweat and tears out on the water. Here is our guide to some historical high spots and fantastic watering holes along the course.

All Saints Church

As the rowers wait nervously on the startline, they need only to look up to their left to see the imposing All Saints Church, on the north side of Putney Bridge. It’s most famous for being the church in The Omen where the ill-fated priest Father Brennan (Patrick Troughton) is speared by a lightning rod which falls from the top of the tower. It’s all Damien’s fault, of course.

Putney Sculpture Trail

If you’re feeling more arty and less sporty, then go on the hunt for all nine of artist Alan Thornhill’s sculptures, which are dotted around Putney, from Leader’s Gardens to Prospect Quay. One is outside the Duke’s Head, one of Putney’s best boozers, and another great spot to watch the rowers on the startline.

Fulham Football Club

You can choose to follow the Boat Race course either on the south or the north side of the river. The south will take you through the hustle and bustle of Putney Embankment as the crews boat and Clare Balding wanders around with a microphone. A slightly quieter option would be to stick on the north side and walk up to Fulham Football Club.

Back in the day this was a very low-key stadium, albeit in a fabulous location. You used to be able to hear Oxford take on Cambridge in the University Varsity Football match there, on the same day as the Boat Race. Now, it’s an astonishingly glamorous affair which will welcome Boat Race fans to a special zone on Saturday.

The Dove

Undoubtedly you’ll want to treat yourself to a pint along the way, and there is no end of choice on this side of the river. If you choose to go on the south side (or the Surrey station), you’ll be thirsty until Barnes. So stick to the North and after Hammersmith Bridge there is a run of famous watering holes, but carry on until after Furnivall Gardens to The Dove. The pub has survived from the 17th century and features the smallest bar in the entire world. It was where Charles II wined, dined and… whatevered with Nell Gwynne, and has probably seen plenty more bad behaviour over the years. Make sure you book first!

The White Hart

It’s now better to switch to the south side of the river, so head back over Hammersmith Bridge and walk up past Barnes Common. You can take a detour through the beautiful Leg O Mutton nature reserve (before stopping at another well-known and well-positioned pub, the White Hart. It’s right on the river so rowing fans are guaranteed a good view as the two crews go past. At this point, their lungs will be burning, legs turning to jelly and they will probably be in the most pain they’ve ever felt. Meanwhile, you can just have another sip of Guinness. Once the racing’s stopped, there is apparently an after party!

The Ship

There are two places to watch the agony and the ecstasy of the finish line – my old rowing club, Tideway Scullers School on the Middlesex station, or The Ship on the other side of the river in Mortlake. In the 90s when we rowed there, the air was always thick with a yeasty, hoppy aroma which emanated from the Stag Brewery. It has now sadly closed (there’s a great blog about it here: ). I can smell the scent in my nostrils even now. Beer and boats, what could be a better combination?