Further updated: Parisian Pastries - Arbitrix guide to the best bakeries in the capital
It’s hard to find a bad bakery in Paris, which makes picking top pastry places a tough task. Here’s our guide to the best bakeries around the French capital – and what to order when you visit.
Last year, I spent days walking around Paris, searching for traces of a disused railway. This was a project that needed a lot of fuel. Thank goodness for the wonderful bakers and pâtissiers of Paris, helping me along my way with the power of pastry. From the quiet residential areas of the south to the bustling streets of Montmartre in the north; from boujee Batignolles to hipster Marais – I visited lots of places and tried a range of delicious bakes. Here are my top spots, along with what to order when you go. I’m going to keep updating this, as I find more marvellous places - and let you know when places move/close, as there seems to be a lot of change at the moment. But - top tip, check the websites before you go and do check opening times. Not all bakeries are open 7/7 and many close in the middle of the day too. It’s not always convenient, but I assure you that it is well worth visiting each of these gorgeous spots.
In France there is a distinction between a bakery (boulangerie – a shop that deals mostly in bread) and a pâtisserie (a shop that deals mostly in cakes). Confusingly, but not surprisingly, there are also shops that are a mixture of the two called “boulangerie-pâtisserie”. It’s easier for us all if I only use the term bakery . Some of the places listed below also sell superb bread, do check that out if you visit. Shinya Pain and Sain have some exceptionally gorgeous loaves on offer
1. Scoff Snails near the Canal
What a delight it is, to stroll along Canal St Martin in the early morning, admiring the reflections of bridges and trees in its broad, still waters. Turn off into a couple of pleasant side streets, then land in the workshop of self-taught pastry craftsman, Christophe Vasseur, at the glorious Du pain et des Idées It’s a proper Parisian pleasure to browse this beautiful store. It’s also walking distance from Gare du Nord, if you want to pick up some goodies for the journey home.
The must buy here is the “escargot pistache chocolat” a coil of crisp, buttery pastry seamed with bright pistachio paste and melting dark chocolate. There are seasonal variations - around Christmas, the pistachio escargots feature cranberries, for a little zing. Well worth a try..
Du pain et des Idées 34 rue Yves Toudic, 75010 Paris
2. Bolt down a Baba in Batignolles
At just over a year old, this beautiful new pâtisserie in the charming residential district of Batignolles is run by baking celebrity Jeffrey Cagnes – graduate of historic Parisian pâtisserie Maison Stohrer.
Both a bakery and tearoom-with-seating-on-the-street, Jeffrey Cagnes offers wonderful pastries, viennoisserie, macarons and chocolates – but the unmissable bake to try here is the baba au rhum.
A faint scent of rum greets customers as they enter the shop. This comes from a pair of deep glass bowls filled with buns bathing in boozy syrup. A baba is not a traditional breakfast choice – but why not dare to be different? How something soaked in so much sugar and booze can still feel light is beyond me. The man is a magician.
Jeffrey Cagnes - 24 Rue des Moines Paris 75017
3. Chew on a Cheesecake in Le Marais
Along the delightfully named Rue des rosiers (rosebush road – there’s a park next door with the same name - a good place to eat your pastry) Murciano is a popular Hebraic bakery in the middle of Paris’ Jewish quarter. It’s got the lot – challah, babka, strudel along with all the breakfast basics.
Best known for mini chocolate croissants (adorably tiny and very delicious) I’d rather order a slice of their magnificent baked cheesecake –cut from a hectare of perfect, crumbling cream cheese heaven. Despite its decadence, this cheesecake tastes so light, it is easy to polish off a whole piece
Murciano Patisserie-Boulangerie, 14 rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris
4. Hoof down some Hipster Cookies, in Montmartre, at night
The second worst kept secret* in Paris is Shinya Pain Montmartre, – a tiny shop in the heart of Amélie-land, where the products of the day are advertised on an Instagram account, then sell out in an instant. Only open at night, from Thursday to Sunday – this whole situation could feel like a gimmick to trick trend-thirsty millennials into competitive bread shopping. It’s not, it’s really good. The Japanese name is that of master baker Shinya Inagaki, the lovely man behind this rather eccentric enterprise, serving locals and visitors with delicious evening bakes. Try the scones or the cookies.
Shinya Pain
41 Rue des Trois Frères, 75018 Paris
*The worst kept secret is Clamato
5. Savour Sesame Eclairs in Utopia
I hope you enjoy queuing, as this place is popular. You won’t find too many Emily-in-Paris tourists here, but if you do, they will probably be chasing after the (also very delicious) croissants. Located on a street corner in the fashionable 11th district, Utopie is a bakery that deals in dreams – those of the chefs brought to life in choux and sugar and the dreams of every customer that come true with each purchase.
I would argue the case for the sesame éclair as the best product. Impeccable choux pastry, enclosing a featherlight crème, with a subtle but distinct perfume of sesame - finished with a light water icing, flecked with black sesame seeds. Sublime.
Boulangerie Utopie: 20 rue Jean Pierre Timbaud, 75011 Paris
6. Chomp Chocolate Brioche in the 6th
Another long queue to look forward to here, at one of the esteemed Cyril Lignac’s establishments on the left bank. It’s worth every second of the wait, but you will need some resolve to resist adding to your order, as you are forced to file past row upon row of gorgeous patisserie work.
The basic brioche is a must. I bought one filled with rich chocolate paste, which froze on my walk home (I chose one of the coldest days of the year to visit). It didn’t matter - it was perfectly wonderful.
His mini bûches de Noel are also astounding in execution and creativity - some imaginative flavours on offer.
LA PÂTISSERIE SÈVRES - 133 rue de Sèvres 75006
Crack open a Kouign-amann in the 10th
Master baker Anthony Courteille honed his cake-making craft at the afternoon tea tables of Britain. Now back in Paris, his marvellous new bakery Sain - just around the corner from the Canal St Martin, celebrates ancient grains and heritage flours with a glorious selection of delicious breads.
But we are here for the pastries. Their best seller is the chausson aux pommes. But for me, it has to be one of the finest Kouign-amann in Paris - rich, balanced layers of pastry, with beautiful levels of sweetness. This Breton classic is considered the true test of a baker, as it is extremely hard to make well. Buy one of these and enjoy it with a coffee, next to the Canal.
Sain Boulangerie: 15 rue Marie Et Louise, 75010 Paris - this shop is now closed. He has opened two other stores - one just around the corner at 13 Rue Alibert, Paris and a cafe (where you can stay and enjoy his great work) that is located in the upper Marais 23 rue des Gravilliers, 75003
Enjoy an Escargot in the 18th
Along the road from Paris' last wayside crucifix, lies a charming neighbourhood on the edge of the 18th arrondissement: unassuming and friendly, lined with 60's stark, functional buildings and with a warmth that sweeps you into a comforting embrace. And right in the heart of it is this wonderful bakery - Au Duc de La Chapelle
When he became a MOF (meilleur ouvrier de France - a competition held every 4 years to honour top artisans) in 2004 - master baker Anis Bouabsa told me he was the youngest to receive the award that year. Four years later he baked the best baguette in Paris. The man is a genius. And incredibly nice and humble. His shop is also a cafe - so eat in.
I was tempted at 8 in the morning by his wonderfully salty goat cheese and leek quiche - divine, but I realise that doesn’t “count” as a pastry. So choose his amazing escargot with chocolate chips and pistachio and take home a prize-winning baguette while you are at it.
Au duc de la chapelle- Anis Bouabsa 32 rue Tristan Tzara, 75018 Paris - follow him on insta Tel: +33 1 40 38 18 98
Savour a Swedish Snack in a beautiful courtyard in the Marais
It felt a little like I was cheating on Paris, when I used up one of my pastry-eating opportunities to visit Cafe Fika in the Marais - and then I quickly got over myself. Attached to the Swedish Institute, Cafe Fika has a large indoor space with comfy seating, ideal for hiding away with a laptop. It also has a stunning walled garden - a lovely, lovely spot and a true sanctuary in this busy part of Paris.
The order here has to be kanelbullar (cinammon buns) or the cardamom version - both are equally good. I took mine away and ate them on the Eurostar home, congratulating myself wildly on how international that felt. They serve lots of other delicious Swedish snacks and light lunches too. Well worth a visit and a change from the classic viennoisserie of the capital.
Fika 11 Rue Payenne 75003 Paris - website here with details of opening hours and…a menu
Munch a Makrout at a Mosque
The salon de thé at the Grande Mosquée de Paris is located just a short walk from the wonderful Jardin des Plantes. The work of skilled Moroccan, Algerian and Tunisian artisans, who built the mosque during the 1920’s, it has a 26 metre tall minaret, a madrasa, prayer rooms, a library and gardens and is an imposing and elegant sight. But it’s the salon de thé that we are focusing on and its cabinet of sweet delights.
A shaded garden with blue tiled tables leads to an apricot walled antechamber. Here you can choose from cornes de gazelles, makrout, baklava and sables, oozing honey, dates and nuts - stacked high in all their sugary glory. Fill a bag and take them away - or better still, grab a seat in the beautiful courtyard under the shade of a broad-branched tree and enjoy with a cup of mint tea.
Address: 2bis Pl. du Puits de l'Ermite,75005 Paris, tel + 33 1 45 35 97 33. Open every day of the year, non stop from 0900h to 0000h.
Gorge on a Grenobloise in the Goutte d’Or
This lovely corner of the 18th arrondissement is known for being the setting of Emilie Zola’s L'Assommoir, a misery memoir of a poor washerwoman, who falls in love only to have her husband descend into violence and alcoholism. I think this is unfair - I love this neighbourhood and not least because of a wonderful bakery - Boulangerie Tembely. Run by husband and wife Swan and Khabija, the shop has a lovely family ambience - expect a queue too, as I think it’s the most popular bakery in the quartier. There are a few tables where you can pause and enjoy a coffee (which was extremely good - def recommend).
I eyed up a gorgeous looking pissaladiere (pic one)- but the order here has to be the naturally gluten free “grenobloise” (second photo) - a cake made with ground walnuts, with a meringue like lightness balancing the richness of the nuts - sublime!
33 rue Myrha, 75018 Paris, tel: +33 9 54 43 29 58
Open Tues - Sunday 0645 - 2000h
Relish a Roulé in Pigalle
There are several bakery stores around Paris run by roguishly named “The French Bastards” and although I desperately wanted neither to like their edgy branding nor their patisserie I now find myself a fan of both. Best known for their absolutely magnificent cruffins - tall, rounds of featherlight yet buttery pastry encircling various delicious cream fillings, it was a charcoal-coloured snail, lined with lurid pink creme pat and studded with fluorescent pink praline chunks that stole my heart. Absolutely delicious - and comes in a very cool bag, with an excellent, bastard-themed paper napkin too. I wanted to roll my eyes - but they refused to budge. Go, it’s great.
Address: 65 RUE JEAN-BAPTISTE PIGALLE - open from 8am to 8pm. Other locations and opening hours on the website
Wolf down a winner in the 19th
You’ve got a “best baguette” winner at number 8 in this list - now prepare to enjoy an award winning croissant. The “Meilleur Croissant de Paris” is a fierce competition - there are a lot of stunning contenders, so this is no easy win.
2023’s prizewinner is a fairly unassuming looking bakery on the corner of Rue de Crimée and Avenue des Flandres in the 19th - pretty far North. Called Chez Meunier, and part of a chain, this store specialises in organic breads (which are superb) but its viennoisserie is the huge draw.
Full disclosure - I don’t really like croissants. I know, I know, but I don’t.
I do, however, understand what makes a good one. The judges in the “Meilleur Croissant” competition look for perfection in shape, shine, lamination, cooking techniques and flavour. In a nutshell, they are looking for that sort of bakery-trickery, that seems effortless, but is a result of absolute precision, understanding of the climate, the humidity and temperature that day and top notch ingredients.
Perfection in a croissant boils down to packing as much rich buttery flavour as possible into the pastry, without it being even faintly greasy. Keeping the pastry light and flaky, yet not stinting on the calories. Yes, exactly - it’s not easy and croissants aren’t even showy, flashy, aren’t-I-brilliant-look-at-my-fancy-cake pastries.
Chez Meunier nails all of these aspects, creating a delicate, but pure-butter-flavoured crescent pastry for the very reasonable sum of 1 euro 40 cents.
If you do want something showy - they have the most magnificent looking maritozzi (donut-like buns, halved and stuck back together with flavoured cream). If you want something absolutely exquisite - then there is a brioche pain au raisin - like a bulked up and hench pain-au-raisin, but more bready and squidgy - heaven.
Prepare to queue - news of the croissant prize has spread. Although this bakery is far from central Paris, tourists are making the trip out to La Villette and seem very happy to do so.
Chez Meunier, 185 Rue de Crimée Open 7 days a week : 7:00 - 20:30
Tel. : +33140373970
Bite into a Borek in the fourth
On the same street as Murciano is another Hebraic bakery legend - the magnificent Sacha Finkelsztajn glows a vivid acid yellow, standing out amongst the various green and blue painted shopfronts that surround it. Part deli, part bakery, this gorgeous shop specialises in cheesecakes and has shelves of them. From the classic “plain cheese” to a delicious one stained pink with the juice of raspberries, the thin pastry base supports a light-as-air cheese topping that is neither too sweet nor too sour. It’s their best seller, but for me, the order is something also made with cheese, but not a cake.
As soon as you walk into the shop, you are confronted with a tray of just cooked triangles, straining at their flimsy filo seams with wonderful cheesy goodness, These are boreks - gorgeous savoury stuffed pastries, found in Turkey and across Eastern Europe. Sacha Finkelsztajn does them exceptionally well. The staff are absolutely lovely and offer to heat them up, so you can enjoy them straight away. I’m a purist and like a straightforward sheep cheese filling. You can go rogue with a bit of spinach - there may be other versions too. Highly recommended.
27 rue des Rosiers, 75004 Paris France. Check the website link above for opening hours or call them +33 1 42 72 78 91.
Pack in a Pave in the 20th
If I had to cheat on my favourite arrondissement, the 19th, then I would do so with the 20th. Home to one of my favourite French hip hop artists Les X (the artists formerly known as X-Men), it’s another non-flashy neighbourhood, the last resting place of Jim Morrison and Oscar Wilde and it feels airy and cool and not bougie.
Now it is home to that most hipster of creations, a sourdough bakery - which ought to have me rolling my eyes, as I find the ubiquity of sourdough a trial. It’s an impractical sort of bread, with great big holes that leak. And never make the mistake of using it as the toast for beans on toast - as well as the leaky hole problem, its sour nature clashes dreadfully with the sweet tomato sauce of the beans. Only mother’s pride white, for this job.
Anyway - goodness, sorry - back to Parisian pastries. Atelier Fargo is a newish bakery - it deals in ancient grains and sourdough and has a good selection of breads. They use sourdough for the viennoiserie (croissants, pains au chocolat etc) which makes them a bit softer, but with a longer shelf life. My head was turned by a Pave Pralinee - a delicious square of buttery (I think they use some really high end butter - pure, clean, sweet) pastry filled with a rich praline cream. It took me ages to find the place and I was ravenous when I arrived. This treat did not touch the sides. Fabulous.
Open Mon - Sat, 0700h to 2000h
Pork out with a pain au raisin in the 11th
Now this place will get all the Paris box-tickers and Septime fanclubbers hot under the collar - Tapisserie is the latest offering from the Septime team.
For the uninitiated, Septime is a terribly good Michelin fine dining restaurant. It’s more casual cousin Clamato is a breath-holdingly trendy, studiously relaxed, walk-in-only fish restaurant . This latest addition to the Septime family can be found in two locations - on either side of the Seine.
I went to the one in Rue de Charonne. It was a fairly small shop, with rather grand patissiers putting out their wares. It smelt incredible - I mean all patisseries smell good, but this was extraordinary. There was a rather earnest sign on the door explaining their sustainable practices. Honestly - and this is wicked of me to say - but if they told me the pastries were made from ortolan spit, I would have pretended not to hear and bought one anyway.
I went for the most simple option, just to see how they would manage without flexing - a coiled and crispy pain au raisin and it was annoyingly superb. But that’s the annoying and yet brilliant thing about Paris compared to, say London or Berlin. When something is popular, it’s for a very good reason - because it is truly great. I do hope you appreciate how dark it was, when I visited. I like to get to my bakeries early
65 Rue de Charonne Paris 11
Open 7 / 7
Monday to Friday / 8.30 - 19.00
Saturday/ 9.30 - 19.00
Sunday / 9.30 - 17.00
Feast on Financiers in the 19th
These are funny looking financiers as they are small and round and I always think the things should be tiny loaves. It was dreadfully, dreadfully early in the morning when I arrived at Bulle - another relatively new opening in the 19th. It coincided with me on the hunt for secret vineyards - there is one just around the corner. So, it is possible that I got muddled up and thought the baker said financier, when she said something else.
Anyway - these two small balls of cakiness were excellent and it’s always fun to try a new place. It’s just around the corner from Buttes Chaumont Park - one of the best parks in the city - so grab a bag of pastries and have a breakfast picnic. They only have drip coffee, (or did when I went in January) so if you are an espresso monster, you’ll need to buy your coffee elsewhere.
Tuesday to Saturday7h30 to 20h
Sunday 8h to 19h
18: Snack on yet another snail in the 11th
Another newish opening - my last trip to Paris was all about finding newly opened places - Bopain on Rue de Charonne, which is a jolly good street for bakeries and food in general. There is another branch in the 12th. I liked this one - a sort of bakery and coffee shop with an incredibly friendly server.
According to my new best-bakery- friend, Bopain’s best seller in a chausson aux pommes (which I had to decline due to my very violent allergy to apples). Second best seller is a pain aux raisin (or snail, if you insist on using the childish English term, which I do). I forced another snail down and it was lovely. What makes it special compared to others around town, is the use of two different types of raisin, blonde ones (I’m not sure how to say this in English - do we say blonde raisins?) and the more common black ones.
But do try the apple puff if you go - it looked lovely.
8 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris
Monday to Saturday • 7h15/30-20h
19: Crunch a Kouign amann in Place des Vosges
Run by a pair of Italian brothers, Brigat (named after Brigata, a town in Italy) is in one of the prettiest corners of the city - just next to Place des Vosges. The shop looks more like a jewellery store than a bakery from the outside - which is appropriate as the pastries and cakes are absolute gems.
I was on my way to the Victor Hugo museum - an apartment filled with artworks and with quite extraordinary décor, when I spotted this very attractive looking bakery and wandered in.
Although I was very tempted by some of the creamier confections, it was pouring with rain, I wasn’t hungry yet, so I knew they would absolutely die a death in my bag as I charged about, up and down the stairs of the museum, or trogging through the streets back to my hotel.
Instead I bought a golden, lacquered, buttery Kouign amann, which I ended up saving to eat on the Eurostar several hours later. It was gorgeous and I was the envy of all my fellow passengers. I massively rate this place. It’s hardly a secret, off-the-beaten-track sort of deal, but it’s very, very good.
6 Rue du Pas de la Mule, 75003, Paris
info@brigat.paris +33 (0)157408385
Tuesday - Friday 7:30-20:00
Saturday and Sunday 08:00-20:00
Freshen your palate with a delicate sugar puff in the 12th
I love this part of Paris - there is plenty going on, yet it is reasonably safe feeling. I enjoyed walking through its streets before dawn, looking for vintage bakery Boulangerie BO.
This Parisian patisserie is housed in a beautiful Art Deco building, worth visiting for the architecture alone. It’s one of those triangular, corner buildings, utterly charming. There are chairs in front of the shop, where I sat, shrouded in January cold, drinking my coffee and watching the indigo sky turn pale.
Don’t just look at this place, dive right into their impressive selection of delicious pastries. I was entranced by these tiny choux puffs, studded with sugar crystals, simple, airy and delicious. The coffee was absolutely superb too - one of the best I have had at a bakery. Go there at once.
85bis Rue de Charenton
75012 Paris 12ème
Open daily except Weds 0700h - 2000h
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