Salzburg and the Sound of Music

How Lucy went full Julie Andrews in this beautiful Austrian city and fell in love with the Dirndl

I generally avoid musicals . And the opera for that matter - I cannot cope with people singing things they could just say. It’s entirely my problem and not something to boast about, but I do make one big exception : I love “The Sound of Music”.

I can’t really explain why I like it so much, as I find most of the characters dreadful. That miserable old Captain Von Trapp, moping about and refusing to sing; the tragic, but also quite annoying children, acting out because their mother is dead and their father too strict. The fun-hating nuns. And then there is Maria - we are supposed to love her, but she is beyond irritating. Maria is a frail, winsome, prancing, singing sprite in a dowdy dirndl - mooning around after a man, who in addition to being far too old for her, is a really miserable bastard [see above]

The only one I do like is the Baroness, who starts the film being engaged to the captain, but very sensibly, once he gets his head turned by an annoying girl half his age with a bowl haircut, gracefully excuses herself from the situation. The Baroness looks rather sad in the film, but I believe she really dodged a bullet - as well as being fearfully dull, Captain Von Trapp is clearly wildly fertile and these are the days before decent contraception. And… judging by the fact he wants to shag the virgin nanny - he’s also a really unimaginative middle-aged male cliche. But there you go - there’s so much to think about in this wonderful musical. I could go on all day.

But I shan’t - instead I shall give you a list of wonderful Sound of Music themed things to do in the beautiful Austrian city of Salzburg, where I travelled earlier this year

1. Yodelling

I desperately wanted to learn to yodel - but sadly couldn’t find anyone to teach me while I was there. I think yodelling is something you can’t just do a quick class in, like salsa or painting a plate - there’s a bit more to it. It’s probably for the best, to be honest as I do live in a semi detached house. However - if you want to have a go, here’s a link that might help

2. Take a Sound of Music coach tour

Board a bendy bus and weave through the winding roads of Salzburg and its surrounding area looking for film locations. The gazebo where the Nazi boy and Liesl sing “Sixteen going on Seventeen”. The church where Maria and Captain von Trapp get married. The avenue where Maria skips along singing “I have confidence”. The best thing about this tour? - they play songs from the show on the bus and everyone sings along.

3. Make a show of yourself in the Mirabell Palace and Gardens

Run around the fountain in the beautiful Mirabell gardens. Hunt for the rather unfortunately-named “dwarf garden” and stand next to a dwarf statue, like the kids do in Do re mi. Jump up and down the steps leading to the rose garden. You won’t be the only one doing it

4. Sing on a bicycle like Maria

Hire a bike and cycle up and down the river with a soppy, dreamy look on your face. Sing your way through all the bangers from the show as you pedal. Although Salzburg is a really hilly town, the river banks are a flat and very safe place to cycle.

5. Learn how to make a “crisp apple strudel”

“Cream coloured ponies and crisp apple strudels” trills Maria, as she throws safeguarding to the wind and brings all the children into her bed. There is a cooking school next to the river, where you can learn how to make an apple strudel (the pastry really is extraordinarily thin) and then eat it with your classmates.

.6. Get dressed up in a Dirndl (or some Lederhosen)

Get into character at Salzburger Heimatwerk, where some of the most high quality Dirndl in the district are produced. I went for a tour and ended up trying on a couple and adored how they looked. Full disclosure - they are an absolute pain to put on. First you have a tiny cropped lacy blouse. Then a great big fluffy petticoat. Then a dress with a bodice that hoiks up your bosoms until they are somewhere near your chin and cinches in your waist with a tight fitting band. Then finally an apron that you knot according to your marital status. Lads can get a nice pair of lederhosen made from local deer and a smart jacket. I am a huge fan of this traditional clothing - but it’s fearfully expensive.

7. Watch the Sound of Music performed by creepy puppets

Who could forget the “Lonely Goatherd” where Maria and the children suddenly lay their hands on a huge number of professional-level theatre puppets and perform for Captain Von Trapp. There’s some great rhymes in this song and yodelling. At the Salzburg Marionette theatre, fans can watch the Sound of Music performed by puppets - each with the traditional twelve strings to allow them greater range of movement and expression

I’ve just scratched the surface here - there are more locations, like the cemetery and convent in the city which also feature as film locations. There are self guided walking tours and cycle tours. You could even cut up your hotel curtains to make outfits to play in (not advised obvs).